Here are various tools involved in metalcasting. Some are
homemade and some are readily bought in the shop. Click on the pictures to
enlarge the image.. |
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Apron
The apron is made of chromeleather. It's not so stif but it is resistant
against a certain level of heat. The size of the necktie is adjusted
in a way that at the low-end the gap between shoes an trousers is covered.
The belt has been attached to prevent the apron hanging in the way while
pouring. |
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Gloves
The gloves are ordinary weldinggloves made of leather with a lining
inside. The heatresistantcy is not very high so you kan hold real hot
items only for a short period. Glowing or molten metal cant be hold
at all. Theyre main purpose is to project you from slightly heated handles
and the radiation when you open the ovenlid. Also they can protect you
for a very, very short moment when things go wrong an melted metal hits
your hands. I suppose the gloves will be burned then and have to be
disposed off. |
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Rammers
The rammers are made from pinewood sized 45x45 mm.There are a few different
lenghts. One of the sides is sanded smaller so its possible to ram in
an small gap between items and to ram along the sides of the flask.
Another ram was made longer to ram in deep flasks. Unfinished there
clogs sand on the ramming surface. When painted (laquered) this problem
gets lesser. |
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Tong
This tong has been tailormade to the crucible and the oven. The tong
has a combined function as lifting and pouring tong. It has a close
fit so it can slide in the narrow opening between the oven and the crucible.
After carefully brought in place the tong is closed and the crucible
can be lifted out of the oven. It holds the crucible secure enough to
do the pouring with it. |
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Temperature Chart
In absence of a pyrometer this chart can be used to have an aproximate
gues at the temperature. |
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Mouldingsand
To my honest opinion the moulding sand is one of the most important
factors in creating a nice pouring result. I bought a mixed and ready
bag of sand from Gieterijtechniek Holland. Wether you melt the metal
in a big or small or round or square or 'just a pile of brickstype'
oven, in a tube, a pan or claycrucible: the result won't be that much
different. But if you use mouldingsand thats to coarse, not sticky enough
or worse to wet your mould will crumble and your workpiece will look
awfull on the outside and inside (airbubbles). Just buy a nice bag with
100 pounds of quality moulding oilsand and get a lot of fun with your
first castings. Later on you can make your own sand if you wish.
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Safetymask
The safety faceprotection is very convenient when peeking in the chimney
of the oven and when skimming of the dross. Besides this it is absolute
nessecary when things go wrong and melted metal is flying in the air
as a result of some unspotted moisture somewhere. I think its much safer
and more convenient then just safety goggles. |
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Partingdust
As parting dust i use the left over babypowder. Since my childeren
have grown out of the dipers theres is only little need for this stuff.
Before use I put it in a small linen bag. When I shake this little bag
there whirls a nice finedustcloud in the air that covers the surface
in an very even way. |
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Skimmingspoon
To get the dross off the molten metal I used a stainless kitchenspoon
mounted at a metalpipe. After five pouringsessions the spoon was burned
trough. It it has just dissolved in the molten liquid. Now I made one
of 3 mm thick stainless sheet metal welded to a massive stainless rod |
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Degasser
To get the endresult with no airbubbles and contamination, drossingsalt
and degassingsalt can be used. I have not used it till now. |
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Flask
The smaller flasks are made of 18 mm plywood. The bigger ones are made
of pinwood because they are better standing up against the forces which
are a result of ramming the sand. To line up the drag and cope positioning
pins are needed. It is better to have long pins so the two halves are
guided over a extended slideway so a complex mould is prevented from
being scorned when finally put together. |
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Scraper
To remove little pieces of dross and drops of aluminium from the crucible
when it's stil hot I made a stainless scraper. The scraper has a blade
with a variable radius, so it fits in every part of the crucible by
twisting a little. |
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Moulding tools
These are the tools which I use preparing the moulds. |
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Toolrack
This is the rack where the tools are placed during the pouring session.
Espessially the hot tools need a protected place where they don't burn
other things and where you don't accidently step on them. |
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Pliers
The pliers are home made and used to put pieces of metal in the preheatingbasket
and from the preheating basket in the crucible. |