Metal Pouring Session II
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A. Heating up
Click on the pictures to enlarge.

A1. Oven heating up.

This is the casting site in the garage. Right in the front you can see the ingotmould. Here goes the surplus aluminium.

A2. The other way around.

Today I noticed: casting inside the shop makes your tools, machines and equipment instantly rust. Maybe I'll do future sessions outside.

A3. Opening the lid to add aluminium
     
A4. Adding preheated ingots to the crucible

A5. Skimming the dross.

The dross goes into the drosspan, which can be seen in picture A1. Connected at the left side to the ovenframe .

A.6 Ingots.

In the beginning I used muffins to make ingots. Since a while I make those triangular bars.

B. Pouring
B1. Lifting the crucible out of the oven with the specially designed tong B2. Pouring the first hole. In the beginning the liquid is hot .... B3. and can better fill thin voids. Therefore it's neccesary to pour as quickly as possible, without taking risks.
     

B5. Pouring in the second hole.

The sprues on this mould were to small.

B6. Pouring in the third hole.

Bcause of the small sprues, the small pouringholes and the concave surface ...

B7. Pouring in the fourth hole.

....the metal flows over the top and contracts together. Thats one of the reasons why one should start with melting more aluminium then strictly needed

     
C. Unpacking

C1. Unlocking the cope and drag.

I always clamp them together with a bolt and a nut.

C2. The cope

At position "A" can be seen that the form didn't completely fill to the end

   
C3. The drag C4. Removing the petrobond-sand
   
D. Results

D1. The grip of the sword.

It came out nice, only a few nibbly roughenings on the parting line.

D2. The blade and grip of the sword.

Mark the new blade being short due to (a)wrong sprue position (b) metal not hot enough (c) lack of a vent (d) not enough pressure on the fluid.

   

D3. The shuriken.

Around the center between the spades is a little metal due to crumbling of the petro bond. I think i didn't ram the sand good enough. The downward spade didn't quite fill till the end. Problably due to one of the reasons mentioned at picture D2.

D4. The toolholder.

I tried to do the open parts also but the pieces of rammed petrobond got loose while removing the model. So I removed them all. I think the openings need more taper so the model gets of the sand more easely.

   

D5. Vacuumnap.

It came out well. No sign of shrinkage. I guess it got enough backfeed from the sprue when cooling down.

D6. Dragbars.

These are the bars which wil be cut to pieces. These pieces wil be provide with a guidingpin. A pair of these will couple the cope and drag.